How do professional brow artists get the brows to look so perfect? Well, for one, they spend a lot more time designing the brow before they start removing hairs! Usually this design process involves inspecting the hair growth and direction, selecting a suitable brow colour, and marking the points of the brow (brow mapping) to ensure as much symmetry and balance as possible.
In this post, we're going to share some of the basics from Paramedical Aesthetician, Bell Barca (brow trainer and owner of Satori Minerals and The Cosmetic Hub) so that you can maintain your perfect eyebrows at home!
- White Eyeliner Pencil or White Gel Pen (non-toxic)
- Long piece of string or cotton, pre-coloured or dusted with eyeshadow powder (optional)
Step 1) Find the centre point between the brows by imagining a straight line up through the centre of the cupid's bow (top lip) and bridge of the nose. No one's nose is perfectly straight so you will need to give it your best estimate. Mark this line by holding the coloured string taut against the skin, or simply mark it with your white pen/pencil. This will be referred to as the centre, centre line, or centre point.
Step 2) Mark where you would like the eyebrow to start by tracing a line up from each nostril, parallel to your centre line. Each eyebrow should be the same distance from the centre. This will be referred to as the start of the brow, starting line, or starting point.
Step 3) Draw an imaginary line from the nostril through the centre point of the eyeball (looking straight ahead will help you to determine where this would be) and up to the arch of the brow. Ensuring the arch sits at the same height on each brow, and at about the same distance from the centre point, is key. Mark this point with your pen/pencil or coloured string. This will be referred to as the arch or arch point.
Step 4) Draw an imaginary line from the nostril to the outer corner of the eye and continue through to where the end of the brow should be. Mark this point with your pen/pencil or coloured string. This will be referred to as the finishing point.
Step 5) Using your pen/pencil, sketch a line from the bottom of one brow to the other, and from the top of one brow to the other (crossing the centre line). This will ensure the brows are around the same thickness and height on the face.
Step 6) Draw a line from the starting line along the BOTTOM edge of your brow to meet the finishing point. This line will have a curve in it, and this curve will vary depending on your anatomy. You can adjust it to make your brows thicker or thinner. Draw the bottom edge of your other brow to match.
Step 7) Stand back and look at your brows and make sure that they appear symmetrical. As you will be looking at a reflection of yourself (flip side) it is also a great idea to take a digital photo to get perspective on what others will see when they look at your brows, not just a mirror-image.
Step 8) Any stray brow hairs outside of your white lines can be removed. It is best to use tweezers so that you are slow calculated in your approach to avoid making a mistake.
DEFINING THE BROW
- Satori Minerals Vegan Brow Pencil
- Satori Minerals Brow Highlighter
- Satori Minerals Fluffy Brows Brow Soap
- (Satori Minerals No Filter Liquid Foundation)
Step 9) Fill in the brows (inside the white lines) with the Vegan Brow Pencil in your colour choice. For a more dramatic look, smudge in the colour. For a more natural look, just fill in the gaps by drawing in a little hair-stroke with your product. To create a crisp bottom edge, use the Satori Minerals Brow Highlighter on the underside of the brow.
Step 10) Clear away any remaining white pencil with makeup remover, cleanser, or a bit of foundation on a small brush. Set the brows in place with Satori Minerals Fluffy Brows, and away you go!